Help Desk Software
2005 - 2011 Tacoma Fog Light Installation
These notes are an account of what I did. I am sharing them in case someone is looking to do this too and can benefit from my install. This is not intended to be a definitive install guide. Do not attempt this if you are not comfortable doing basic wiring – hire a pro.
Before starting I collected the following stuff:
• 14 gauge primary wire (10 feet each of black and red)
1 Tacoma fog light kit from Toyotapart.com. It ccomes with the lamp housings (2), bulbs (2), 30 amp relay, dash switch, connectors for all and repair wires. This is the $416.91 kit.
The light housings are very simple. Nothing gets removed – it just pops into place as is. The white nut at the bottom is used to adjust the angle (attitude) of the lamps after installed. These seem like they could break if too much force is used during install.
To remove the dummy inserts, I crawled under the front bumper, looked up, and found that by simply pressing the plastic tab, the whole thing popped out. There is a tab on both sides, but I found that popping one was enough to free the insert.This picture was taken from below the front bumper.
The dummy inserts pop out easily. It was pretty obvious how the fog lamp housing had to go in once the insert was out of the way.
These are my dummy inserts removed. Nice cup holder or change bin?
The fog light housing just slides in where the dummy insert came out. The bottom post goes into the molded hole in the bumper. There is a lot of plastic here, so I was careful to not force anything too hard.
One light housing in. Actually this one was still loose. I made sure the two side posts and rear anchor point were better secured after taking this picture.
Now both housings are in place.
I had to move the adjuster nearly all the way out to get a solid connection in the hole. The white wheel is easy to access from below the truck, so I figured I would adjust it back later (though no real adjustment was needed in the end).
This picture just shows the bulb and bulb connector in place on the harness.
Pin 87a is not needed. Must be they use the same relay for DRL’s or something like that.
The lower part of the big wire trunk passes through the firewall into the cab. I followed this and found a cool “extra” wire pass through that worked perfect for the fog light switch (next page for pass through).
Here are my switch wires passing through the firewall into the cab. They pop through on the inside just above the left foot rest.
Here is a side shot of the switch used in the kit.
After connecting the switch wires, I gently pulled the excess back into the engine compartment . I neatened everything up with wire ties afterward. Here the switch is installed into the factory switch location. Everything on the cab side is now neatly in place. Extra wire was pulled back into the engine compartment and all wires were wire-tied to existing wire harnesses under the dash. I had to be especially careful to keep the wires away from my clutch pedal. Looks pretty damn good if I do say so myself!
I disconnected the driver’s side parking lamp connector and tapped my relay to it using a pretty standard crimp-style 14 gauge wire tap/splice. The green wire for me was positive, verified by voltmeter before cutting in.
The last thing I did was connect to the positive terminal of the battery. I loosened the nut behind the terminal and slide the spade connector under. I had to widen the gap on the space connector first with a pair of pliers.
I then pulled the red cover back into place and that was about it. Testing showed that everything worked fine.
Here are th new fogs….
Here is the fog lights on at night.
Here is a wiring diagram: And here is a stock wiring diagram: